However, I did check to make sure it wasn't a bomb before applying power. :-)
This module produces both positive and negative outputs when connected to 115 VAC, 60 Hz line voltage. Each is about 5 KV at up to around 5 uA.
The AC input is rectified by D1 and as it builds up past the threshold of the sidac (D2, 100 V), SCR1 is triggered dumping a small energy storage capacitor (C1) through the primary of the HV transformer, T1. This generates a HV pulse in the secondary. In about .5 ms, the current drops low enough such that the
SCR turns off. As long as the instantaneous input voltage remains above about 100 V, this sequence of events repeats producing a burst of 5 or 6 discharges per cycle of the 60 Hz AC input separated by approximately 13 ms of dead time. The LED (IL1) is a power-on indicator. :-)
The transformer was totally potted so I could not easily determine anything about its construction other than its winding resistances and turns ratio (about 1:100).
The secondary side consists of a voltage tripler for the negative output (HV-) and a simple rectifier for the positive output (HV+). This asymmetry is due to the nature of the unidirectional drive to the transformer primary.
From my measurements, this circuit produces a total of around 10 KV between HV+ and HV-, at up to 5 uA. The output voltages are roughly equal plus and minus when referenced to point B.
I assume the module would also operate on DC (say, 110 to 150 V) with the discharges repeating continuously at about 2 KHz. Output current capability would be about 5 times greater but at the same maximum (no load) voltage. (However, with DC, if the SCR ever got stuck in an 'on' state, it would be
stuck there since there would be no AC zero crossings to force it off. This wouldn't be good!)
The secondary side circuitry can be easily modified or redesigned to provide a single positive or negative output or for higher or lower total voltage. Simply removing R4 will isolate it from the input and earth ground (assuming T1's insulation is adequate).
Where there is no high voltage from such a device, check the following:
* Make sure power is actually getting to the high voltage portion of the unit.
Test the wall socket and/or AC adapter or other power supply for proper
voltage with a multimeter.
* Excessive dirt/dust/muck/moisture or physical damage or a misplaced paper
clip may be shorting it out or resulting in arcing or corona (a strong aroma
of ozone would be an indication of this). With such a small available
current (only uA) it doesn't take much for contamination to be a problem.
Thoroughly clean and dry the unit and check for shorts (with a multimeter
between the HV electrodes and case) and then test it again. Your problems
may be gone!
* If this doesn't help and the unit is not fully potted (in which case,
replacement is the only option), check for shorted or open components,
especially the power semiconductors.
from http://www.repairfaq.org
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